How the job runs
- 1Isolateclose the main or the nearest branch valve and relieve pressure at a low tap
- 2Exposeopen drywall or ceiling only as far as needed to see sound pipe on both sides
- 3Cut backremove the split section plus any pipe that is pitted, bulged or thin
- 4Rejoinsolder, press or crimp new pipe matched to what is already in the wall
- 5Prove itrestore pressure, watch the repair under load and check the ceiling below for drips
01Why pipes let go here
Most of the bursts we cut out in Scarborough fall into three families. In the cold snaps of January and February, copper running through an outside wall or over an unheated garage freezes and splits lengthwise. In postwar houses, galvanized steel rusts from the inside until a threaded joint simply weeps and then gives way. And in some later homes, thin-wall copper develops pinholes that start as a stain and end as a spray.
Each one needs a slightly different repair, which is why the plumber looks at the failed piece before deciding what to install.
| Common culprits | Frozen exterior-wall runs, corroded galvanized nipples, pinholes in thin copper |
|---|---|
| Usual repair length | A short section, longer if neighbouring pipe is pitted |
| What you should do first | Close the main shut-off, kill power to wet areas, call |
02Opening the wall properly
We cut ceiling and wall openings in neat rectangles so a drywaller can patch them cleanly. If the leak ran for a while, we check insulation and the bottom plate for soaking, and we point out anything that should dry before it gets closed in.
A burst pipe is rarely the only weak spot on that run; the job sheet notes what else we saw.
03Stopping the next one
If the pipe froze, the fix includes rerouting or insulating that run, not just patching it. If it rusted through, we look at how much of the same steel remains, because one failed joint usually has neighbours.